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Wonderflex is a type of thermoplastic that is shaped
with heat. Thermoplastic has been around for a long time, but unlike other forms
of thermoplastic you don't need to put this in your oven, and it doesn't smell
like burning DEATH when you work with it. (It's non-toxic too, which cosplayers
tend to ignore for their hobby, but is a nice side bonus anyway). It is also
unique because, on the bias (diagonal line) it will stretch when heated,
allowing full, round shapes and bell curves.
What do I need to use
Wonderflex?
The basics of Wonderflex working is a hard
surface (I’m fond of cement floors, and you don’t want to work on carpet),
Wonderflex, a pencil, some craft scissors, a heat gun (also known as a paint
stripper and available at almost any Wallmart/Home Depot/Canadian Tire you
visit, usually under $30), some paper and/or fun foam for patterning, and tape
to help you hold pieces together for mockups and testing. Also, any reference
image you can get your grubby hands on.
Tools of the
trade.
What can I make with Wonderflex?
If you can think of it, you can probably make it. I
have successfully made armor, chest plates, kneepads, staff tops, swords, and
automail. My next projects include a shield, more automail, persocom ears, a
Boogiepop Phantom hat and floaty-ribbon-o-death, and a bunch of small daggers
and knives. With practice and work you can make it take just about any
form.
Wonderflex and insulation foam staffs by Lauren and Hannah of Idjit.
Lord Seshoumaru of Inuyasha and
Edward Elric of Full Metal Alchemist.
Wonderflex does things craft
foam can’t -- like bell curves. This means you can make a close fitting chest
plate, or do exaggerated shoulder armor (from Clamp’s Rayearth, or Yu-Gi-Oh!’s
Dark Magician, for example). Unlike other kinds of thermoplastic, Wonderflex
does not develop stress marks or wrinkles, and does not weaken along curves.
Automail fingers that circle the finger
and are rounded, not square, at the tip.
And because there’s no
drying time for Wonderflex itself, unlike paper mache, you can work on a project
until it’s done.
Wonderflex is not fragile like Sculpty or Paper Clay. A
staff top made of Wonderflex can be dropped, banged, or used to discourage an
over-enthusiastic fanboy/girls and not react in the slightest. Stepping on it
will probably crack your paint job, and may pop a joint, but the plastic itself
is near-indestructible. It can, under areas of *extreme* stress, over a period
of time and with two loose areas rubbing against each other, develop a rip at
the bottom, exposed edge. However this is easy to repair, and has only occurred
once of everything we’ve completed so far, on the bottom edge of Seshoumaru’s
chest armor where the sword had been rubbing for two days. (The tear was a
centimeter deep and didn’t spread at all, even though it was under constant
pressure.)
What can’t I make with Wonderflex?
Wonderflex needs to be coated in some form of base in
order to smooth it out, as in its raw, shaped form, it has a texture similar to
duct tape. Those ridges will show up when painted, especially if the surface is
to be silver or gold and shiny. Therefore Wonderflex is not very suitable for
very fine detailing like filigree work. Very thin pieces less than half a
centimeter wide can snap under pressure, and will not support themselves upright
unless given a double thickness.
Pieces such as Queen Beryl’s headdress shown
below, or Zoicite’s shoulder detailing, would not be advisable.
Is it easy to use?
Yes! Wonderflex is really quite user friendly. I had
never worked with any form of plastic before using Wonderflex, and it
took very little time to grow accustomed to. Because it is activated by heat,
you can play with it at different temperatures to achieve different results. If
you make a mistake, you can reheat it to reform it. Joints are made by heating
two pieces and pressing them FIRMLY together. If you make a mistake heating the
joints again allows you to separate them, but once cooled fully bonded joints
will not separate.
Remember, I am not an expert! One of the reasons I’m
creating this FAQ is because I’m one of the most experienced people in the
cosplay community using Wonderflex right now, but that in no means makes me the
resident-know-it-all. If you find another way of doing something, please let us
know so this FAQ can stay updated with the latest techniques.
How do I shape it? Can I use my bare hands?
Wonderflex is suggested to be shaped while wearing
gloves, but I find as long as you allow it to cool slightly I can shape with my
fingers without problem. There IS some discomfort, and it does require a high
heat tolerance -- if you are very sensitive, or worried, a pair of tight fitting
leather gloves may be advisable.
Wonderflex can be shaped in three
ways.
The first method is free form. Take your Wonderflex, heat it, shape
it, let it cool. If it needs further shaping, heat it again. Easy!
The
second method is a positive mold or form. This is what I use to make chest
plates and automail. Making a duct tape from (Instructions can be found HERE and HERE) I
shape the Wonderflex over the form. This is also the method I suggest for staff
tops with dimensions and things like Ed’s spear. Create a shape out of foam
(upholstery foam, or pink insulation foam) and cover it in a layer or two of
electrical tape. Then simply shape the Wonderflex over it. This allows for large
shapes that look hollow and are lightweight, and is especially useful if you
cannot do the third method. The Luna and Solaris staffs shown below are made of
this method.
Insulation foam covered in duct tape,
Wonderflex formed overtop. Unpainted.
The third method is a
negative mould. This is a hollow shape you push the Wonderflex into to take a
form, similar to vacuforming. I have yet to try making negative moulds, so I
can’t comment on the process. I do know this is how Disney makes their
Wonderflex items, and this allows for hollow shapes in any size.
As for
cutting? I use plain old scissors, and a utility knife for shaving down tricky,
tight curves.
How do I pattern it?
I create my pattern first by experimenting with shapes
drawn onto newspaper, then cut out of fun foam when I think I have the right
size/shape. When everything is cut out of fun foam and pieced together properly,
I then transfer the fun foam pattern onto Wonderflex. See examples below.
Automail pattern and spear base.
If I am making something with curves, like a chest plate or
bell-curved shoulders, I make fabric patterns out of broadcloth to give me a
better idea of how the Wonderflex will actually sit, as paper and fun foam only
curve one way.
How much will I need?
It’s very difficult to guestimate the amount you'll
need. Finish your pattern first. Then, on concrete or a rug you won't mind
putting tape down on, Measure out a rectangle 39" by 57". Start laying out your
pieces on it like a puzzle, trying to keep them as close together as possible
without touching. When that square is full start another one, and another, until
you are out of pieces. The amount of squares you have is how much Wonderflex
you'll need. I'd then add half a sheet more to that for mistakes and second
guessing.
Also, ALWAYS keep your scraps of Wonderflex- I never throw it
out, as even small scraps can be used later for reinforcing joints or raised
details.
How do I smooth it out?
As previously mentioned, Wonderflex has a raised
texture, similar to duct tape. To smooth it out I use layers of gesso, sanded
between applications, to fill in the bumps. If you are sanding something curved,
do yourself a favor and invest in a handful of sanding sponges. They are easier
to use, come in many degrees of roughness (I use a fairly coarse sponge for the
most part), sand faster than paper, and are much, much easier to use on curves
and corners.
I purchase gesso from Wallmart’s art department and
Michael’s art stores, and it’s available at most online art
retailers.
For areas that will bend (Areas that are without support, such
as the wings on the Ed Spear) you may stress the gesso and cause it to crack and
flake. The easiest way to prevent this is to ensure anything that is not held
ion your body is supported- use doweling in swords, and foam bases for staff
tops.
I am experimenting with Bondo at the moment, and will add my
results to this when I have them.
How do I join pieces together?
Joints are made by heating two pieces and pressing
them FIRMLY together. If you make a mistake heating the joints again allows you
to separate them, but once cooled fully bonded joints will not
separate.
How do I join Wonderflex to other materials?
I use snaps, hot glue, epoxy, ‘Goop’ glue, and double
sided foam tape (the GOOD stuff) to join Wonderflex to foam, fabric, and
anything else needed. I’ve also used nails and screws for the spear, but I would
suggest utilizing screws for the most part, or nails with a large
head.
Note: hot glue and spray paint do not mix well. I.e., the hot glue
will peel off and you loose the join.
How do I paint it?
Any paint that's made for plastic works. I use
Tremclad Hammertone Rust paint for my Automail, for the 'hammered metal' look,
and for a highly silver/gold look I use Krylon Short Cuts Craft Enamel. If the
Wonderflex has been gessoed acrylic paint will apply with no issues, and I’ve
used fabric paint for raised detailing. Be aware that with paint, especially
spray paint, you will get what you pay for, and cheap paint likes to
flake.
From Amethyst
Angel’s Website: One caveat about using Testor's paint. It will react
negatively to vinyl. (Specifically, it will rub off onto anything vinyl that
comes into contact with it.) This is important to remember if any part of the
costume you're wearing is made of vinyl fabric or if you're thinking of securing
the armor to your body with vinyl straps. (You could try using acrylic paint to
paint your armor instead of Testor's--acrylic paint will NOT react negatively to
vinyl-- but be warned, it will not stick to the surface of the plastic sheeting
as well. You should sand the plastic first and then coat the painted acrylic
surface with an acrylic varnish.) If Testor's paint should come into contact
with vinyl and stain it, it can be easily removed with paint thinner or brush
cleaner, so don't worry if that happens. (For the record, leather and suede will
NOT react negatively to testor's paint, so it should be safe to use for your
costumes.)
Will it break under stress?
No. Don’t make a ladder of the stuff, but Wonderflex
is a very resilient plastic- it will bend under pressure, but not break. I have
yet to manage to tear or break anything I’ve made, and I’ve tried to tear/snap
raw pieces with no luck.
Will it loose its shape during a hot day of
wear?
No. Wonderflex WILL soften if left in a car on a
hot day (not a good idea) and if you have painted your prop black (like
Seshoumaru’s armor) and leave it out under direct summer sunlight, again it may
soften, but simply moving it back inside the house, or even under shade, will
set it again.
If you are traveling long distances in a car that is not
air conditioned, it is a good idea to ensure your prop is well supported and
does not have any pressure on top of it. If it is small, pack it in the cooler
with your food.
Is it flexible when it’s cool?
As standard plastic, yes, it bends, but it will not
bend out of shape. In other words, a sheet can be rolled for transport, but will
unroll flat if untied.
Can I make it stronger?
Yes. Two layers of Wonderflex will bend much less,
three layers won’t want to bend at ALL. To create the immobile floating silver
arch of Seshoumaru’s armor, we used a piece of aquarium tubing for support. For
swords I use wooden doweling to base the handle on and line the middle of the
blade, to ensure it won’t bend while being used. It also insures I won’t have
any weakness between the hilt and sword, as they’re essentially one piece.
Seshoumaru’s Spikes do not move in this
costume at ALL, and are never lying against Jen’s arm.
Can I use it to make full body armor?
Yes. Be aware that pieces that are not being supported
by you but are being built out, you will either need to make a negative mould,
or build over foam to ensure support.
Can I use it to make a large prop, such as
Vash’s angel arm or Wolfwood’s Cross?
Yes. Something
like Vash's arm would be very difficult without building some sort of support
frame within it, and Wolfwood's cross would likely need dowel support along half
the edges to ensure that the prop didn't bend along the joint 'weak' points
while being used. But with the proper framework Wonderflex would work
wonderfully, be very sturdy, and very lightweight.
For an example of how
I work with framework and patterning, here’s how I’d plan out Vash’s angel arm.
I would
A) Decide
that I would be holding it a bit higher, and therefore be supporting it on my
SHOULDER, as opposed to just below the shoulder blade.
B) Decide where
(and how) the arm would come apart for travel and storage.
C) Build a
base form for what the interior would look like out of balls of newspaper and
duct tape so that I could form over it. I'd make the main tube by wrapping that
form with my sections of Wonderflex, and then building on top of that. It allows
me to heat and modify pieces directly on top of my base without running the risk
of the base falling in on itself while heated.
d) Build into the shape
long wooden dowels, probably two running the whole length, possibly three for
additional strength. While Wonderflex is strong, the arm is VERY large- and the
sheer weight of itself could cause it to bend from stress. I may build each
end’s form out of foam for added stability.
e) Go absolutely batty
gessoing to smooth it, and looking for the right feathers. Eventually give up
and decide to make my own from organza and Wonderflex. XD
Here's a
basic design for both the cross and arm
As you can see,
Wolfwood is easy- using the doweling keeps things in line while building and
shores up joint support.
For Vash, red is doweling- I'd build a frame
like that to support the weight of the arm (which really wouldn't be that much,
all told, but would still need support) the purple is a COUNTERWEIGHT- something
you are GOING to need for a prop that big that’s intended to balance on your
shoulder. The orange is Vash's 'arm', and the blue is just an idea of lining the
'feather; with a few strips of bonded Wonderflex to actually make it hold that
shape.
The top right image is the silhouette of the arm- I'd make that, a
touch thinner than what I want my final project, from duct tape and newspaper,
and build my base overtop. Removing the newspaper ducttape form, I’d then make
sure my dowel frame fit inside and would probably make STRAPS (green) to anchor
it in several places in the arm (and since I always think of travel, and a whole
dowel framework is just as hard as the whole arm to transport) figure out how I
was breaking apart the doweling so that I could break it down if necessary. I'd
put the base back into my form, and build the arm up from there.
I’d be
tempted to make each ‘end’ with insulation foam and duct tape covered in
Wonderflex for stability, but that might be more weight than I’m interested in.
I’d definitely experiment before deciding on one plan.
Now, there's
probably a hundred ways of going at this, so this is just my methodology- if you
have a project, don't hesitate to do it your own way- and share the results
here!
Tips and Tricks:
•
For flat seams, heat the Wonderflex to the barely-tolerable range your fingers
have, and then mash the join together, if possible on a flat surface. Using
something to help you press without your fingers directly on the Wonderflex is
good too.
• Don’t use the heat gun too close to the Wonderflex, it
will melt and be too hot to work with for longer periods of time.
•
Pay attention to he Wonderflex as you heat it- it will begin to show when it is
softening, the texture changing slightly under the light and if it is flat on
the ground, the sides will attempt to curl for a moment or two.
• For
raised detailing, fabric paint can be drawn on and then painted
over.
• Try to keep brush strokes to a minimum when applying Gesso,
and sand them down between layers.
• Split pins, snaps, and nuts and
bolts all help make joints.
• If you haven’t made the item before,
try making it out of fun foam to pattern it out first.
• Save every
scrap you have left over, as they can be small details and help support
seams.
• Practice. Experiment. If it goes wrong, heat it and tear it
apart and try again.
Examples of Wonderflex props and
accessories.
Photo gallery
Helmet and Masks by Jay Lasnik
This helmet was molded with green (original) Wonderflex, and covered with leather.
These masks use the same technique of glued leather on the outside. That gives the piece a completely different texture than the bare Wonderflex and all kind of leather paints and finishing techniques can be used.
Headpieces by Lindsey Cunningham
This headpiece is only finished in one half, to show the structural components: Wonderflex for the cap and Fosshape for the branches.
This headpiece is also made of Wonderflex, and the interior was lined to make its wearing more comfortable.
Animatronics arm cover
This piece covers the mechanical, electrical and hydraulic internals of a theme park animatronic character. It closes up with velcro to help pulling it out when repairs are needed.
